The burly cook (he doesn’t like to be called “chef”) specializes in Italian American classics: eggplant stack ($23), chicken cacciatore ($34), and bucatini carbonara ($26), all served in oversized portions. The food is tasty and the portions generous, and if you’re a transplant from New York or New Jersey, it tastes like home. But it’s Martorano who sets this restaurant apart from other Italian joints.

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